We caught the ferry from Gill's Bay across to St Margaret's Hope on the Mainland, Orkney Isles after driving through, what a local in Bonar Bridge described as "a whole lot of nothing". He was pretty right, hardly any hamlets or even farmhouses along the way until we reached the coast. At Gill's Bay the ferry backed in to offload and onload - quite a feat, or so it seemed to us - it didn't seem to bother the skipper though - he's probably done it before.
I won't complain about reverse parking the car again!
Just before we left we spotted these seals on the shore
Orkney Isles has probably the best collection of prehistoric and neolithic remains to be found anywhere. The islands abound with them and Mainland (yes, that's the name of the largest island) has enough to keep any tourists like us busy. We set off for the Standing Stones of Stenness, driving through lush farmland, the like of which we hadn't seen anywhere in our travels through Scotland as yet. These stones are thought to be the oldest "henge" site in the British Isles, dating from 3100BC. Although only four stones remain standing today they are very impressive.
Only just down the road from the Stenness Stones is the Ring of Brodgar. Because the interior of the Ring o' Brodgar has never been fully excavated, or scientifically dated, the monument's actual age remains uncertain. However, it is generally assumed to have been erected between 2500 BC and 2000 BC, and was, therefore, the last of the great Neolithic monuments built on the Ness. The stone ring was built in a true circle, almost 104 metres wide and, although it is thought to have originally contained 60 megaliths, today only 27 stones remain. They make quite an impression!
And on to Skara Brae, one of the best preserved groups of historic houses in Western Europe. Uncovered by a storm in 1850, it presents a remarkable picture of life around 5,000 years ago. It consists of eight clustered houses, and was occupied from roughly 3180BC - 2500BC. Unfortunately, the Ness of Brodgar, which was only "discovered" in 2003 and is still being excavated was closed - it is thought to have been occupied from as early as 3500 BC to the close of the Neolithic period more than a millennium and a half later and may be more significant than Stonehenge due to its size and complexity. Maybe next time? As it was, it was quite an experience to walk where our ancestors walked 5,000 years ago and see a little of what their life was like.
and... there's more! To the northern part of this small island is the Broch of Gurness. Settlement here began sometime between 500 and 200 BC and continued until about the 8th century AD. A broch is an Iron Age drystone hollow-walled structure of a type found only in Scotland thought to be a defensive structure but this is not accepted by many archaeologists. This broch village was inhabited over a long period and housed many from iron age folks to Vikings and Picts.
and.... finally back to Kirkwall where we went for a little wander through the old narrow, winding streets. Kirkwall is recorded as the residence of Rögnvald Brusason the Earl of Orkney and in 1486, King James III of Scotland elevated Kirkwall to the status of a royal burgh. St. Magnus Cathedral, commenced in 1137 and it was added to over the next three hundred years, dominates the township. Adjoining it are the residences, now ruins, of the Bishop and Earl's Palaces - these lads knew how to live it up - no sackcloth and ashes here.
One of the narrow shopping streets - car free most of the day
St Magnus Cathedral
Quite impressive interior
The Bishop's Palace
Before leaving the Orkneys we had time to visit the Tomb of the Eagles - a Neolithic tomb which contained hundreds of skeletons, the bodies of which archaeologists believe, were "cleaned" by eagles and other scavengers after they were left out on the clifftops. Entry was by the original tunnel - a short crawl.
ruined castle and house near the Tomb of the Eagles
At Gill's Bay the ferry backed in to offload and onload - quite a feat, or so it seemed to us - it didn't seem to bother the skipper though - he's probably done it before.
As it was, it was quite an experience to walk where our ancestors walked 5,000 years ago and see a little of what their life was like.
To the northern part of this small island is the Broch of Gurness. Settlement here began sometime between 500 and 200 BC and continued until about the 8th century AD. A broch is an Iron Age drystone hollow-walled structure of a type found only in Scotland thought to be a defensive structure but this is not accepted by many archaeologists. This broch village was inhabited over a long period and housed many from iron age folks to Vikings and Picts.